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When curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. But, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest place securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.